Thursday, January 12, 2012

Sew Colette: Measurements & Muslin


It is so exciting to see such a positive response to the Sew Colette Sew-Along!! It's lovely to see so many new stitchers throw their hat in the ring, as well.

Today we're going to take measurements in preparation for making this month's project: the Meringue Skirt. Once we have our measurements, we'll move on to preparing and sewing the muslin.

meringue

Measurements

'It's hard to overestimate the importance of accurate measurements for sewing. Unfortunately, many women are fearful about knowing their real measurements....Being ashamed of your body's shape is unnecessary at best. At worst, at least in terms of sewing, it undermines your hard work and your self-confidence in wearing your own creations.'

-Sarai Mitnick,
The Colette Sewing Handbook


As seamstresses, embracing our measurements and viewing them as a mathematical equation that yields well-fitting and beautiful garments is essential. Paired with the tape measure, they are two of the most powerful tools in our sewing arsenal.


The Meringue skirt requires the following measurements:
  • Waist
  • Hip
  • Waist to Knee (or where you wish the hem to fall)
The waist to knee measurement is my personal recommendation, as it will help you to determine if you need alter the length of the pattern so that the hem will hit you in the right place. The last thing you want is your beautiful scalloped hem to be too long or too short!

Collette Meringue Skirt with Liberty

Ask a trusted person to help you take your measurements and wear the undergarments you plan on wearing with the skirt, including any shape wear. Following the diagram in the book, have your measurer place the tape measure in the desired location and hold the tape firmly around - not tightly or too lose. Write down the number and move on to the next area until you are finished. Below is a video from Professor Pincushion you may find helpful:



'Different measurements are important for different types of clothing, so try to determine what the most important measurements are for what you're about to sew. For most skirts and pants, you will want to look at both waist and hip and go with the larger of the two.'

-Sarai Mitnick, The Colette Sewing Handbook

It is unusual for your measurements to match the pattern measurements exactly, so don't panic! With measurements in hand, look at the size chart for the Meringue and choose your size. Based on my measurements, I will be sewing a size 4.


Muslin
Once your pattern pieces are prepared, it's time to sew the muslin! Looking at the fabric requirements chart, I will need 2 1/4 yards of fabric for a size 4. It is ideal to try to use a fabric that is a similar weight to your fashion fabric; however, in a pinch, any lightweight fabric will do.

Lay out your pattern for the most efficient use of fabric, keeping in mind the grainlines. Remember that muslins are test garments, so you don't need to worry about perfectly finished seams. You want it to be sewn so it provides an accurate fit, clearly shows where any fitting issues may be, and can be easily manipulated to make these changes.


Now with your sewing 'assignment' well in hand, enjoy making your muslin and meet Erin and I next Thursday, January 19th when we tackle the fit! Please feel free to leave any questions you may have here or in the Flickr group. Happy Sewing!

8 sparkles:

Ronniie said...

Just a question is it best to base your size on your hip or waist measurement?

Marina v.K. said...

great start! I have so much respect for you for taking your time for this sew-along - it requires real commitment!

I am working on my meringue muslin, so I will join! I am making muslin to make sure that the length is good before I cut into scallops!

Will you cover fabric choices, and construction decisions based on fabric choices? I am making mine in silk charmeuse and am in the process making changes for the construction process in lightweight silk...

Miss Crayola Creepy said...

What a great post! I love that you attached a video!

Rochelle New said...

Oops I'm a week early! I thought the muslin was due today :)

Anonymous said...

Do you think this skirt would work in corduroy?Thankyou for this sew-a-long! LeeLee

Sarah said...

@Ronniie - Sarai suggests basing your size on your largest measurement (either waist or hip) and altering the pattern from there.

Personally, I prefer to use my waist measurement and adjust the hip on the pattern accordingly. It's entirely up to you!

@Marina - Thank you! Yes, I will cover fabric choices.

@Anonymous - Definitely! I'm making mine in red cord!

Yizz said...

Oh so glad someone else is making the skirt in cordroy as I have just purchased some beautiful cordroy with embroidery and hand sewn sequins on it.

charlotte said...

Now we are started I feel a little calmer that it will be managable! I'm sure I can manage a muslin in a week. Thanks for all the different types of the same skirt, as I wasn't to sure about the one in the book.