Monday, February 6, 2012

Sew Colette: Fitting the Pastille

I hope everyone is getting along well sewing their Pastille muslins. As planned, this week is going to be devoted to achieving the ideal fit, and I thought we would begin at the top and work our way down; a head-to-toe fitting guide, if you will. This week will also involve making our croquis and I will be posting mine on Wednesday.

First up on our fitting adventure is the shoulder adjustment. Autumnyarn left a comment asking for this as she has too much fullness in the back shoulders in her muslin. Ann Rowley provides an outstanding step-by-step guide on Flickr:

1 Bodice back marking

I am the opposite - I have slightly broad shoulders and my shoulder seams often end a good 1" before my actual shoulders. For my broad shoulder adjustment, I will follow the first step outlined by Ann Rowley (above), but rather than marking for a decrease, I will slash and spread, allowing for the extra fullness I need; very similar to the pivot adjustment we learned for the waist/hips while sewing the Meringue.

* * * * *

Be sure to come back tomorrow when we cover full and small bust adjustments.

Have a questions? Please feel free to post here, in Erin's blog, or in the sew-along Flickr group. We're here to help!


charlotte said...

oh no! I haven't even measured my whole self yet. seriously falling behind!

Montana said...

Thank-you for linking to the shoulder alteration, that is fantastic! Love your blog as always :)

Symon said...

Thank you for the link; I had a ton of extra fabric in the back (amongst other issues) and wasn't sure why - this might be worth a shot :)

MarrieB said...

I need to do a SBA, but I think I also need to reposition the darts, because right now the side dart points above my apex. Do you know if it's better to reposition the dart before doing the SBA, or after? Thanks!!