Monday, February 20, 2012

Sew Colette: My Pastille Muslin Part 2

Last week I shared part one of my muslin adventures, which detailed my broad shoulder adjustment and today I would like to share part two!   Before I get to that; however, I have a confession to make.  I rarely, if ever, make a muslin when I'm sewing.  In fact, the shocking truth is I detest making them!  Were I making a garment that involved rare or expensive fabric, I would definitely invest in muslin-making, however, for my day-to-day garments, I just don't like to do it. 

However, in the spirit of the sew-along and wanting to improve my fitting techniques, I did take the time for a Pastille muslin and I'm rather glad I did.

As you can see,  the cap sleeves do not suit my broad shoulders at all.  This may be, in part, due to a slightly larger than needed shoulder adjustment, but I do think it boils down to the fact that my broad upper frame does not suit dainty cap sleeves. I feel as though my upper half is quite out of balance with my lower half.  On a positive note, I love the neckline and am happy to say that my bodice and skirt darts line up perfectly.  A belt will accentuate my waist and bring the balance I'm looking for.

I need to shave off approximately one inch from the hip area of the dress to get the tailored fit I'm looking for.  To do this, I will redraw both the cutting and sewing lines on my pattern.

Here's my swayback, front and centre! Mr. Friday has kindly offered to help me pinch and pin the excess so I can transfer that to the pattern pieces prior to sewing my final version.

For my final Pastille, I will make the following adjustments:
I am really excited to be moving forward and sewing this beautiful dress out of my fashion fabric.  I always feels a huge sense of excitement and as if I'm moving toward the home stretch at this stage.  I am looking forward to applying my adjustments to my pattern and making up a Pastille that is personalized for me!

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Have questions? Please feel free to post here, in Erin's blog, or in the sew-along Flickr group.
We're here to help!


Foster said...

I think the sleeves look fine, and it doesn't appear that you have broad shoulders at all. But you have to do what makes you feel comfortable! Can't wait to see the fininsh product.

Miss Crayola Creepy said...

Good work with the muslin. I don't remember if you mentioned it already, but what kind of belt are you going to use? A red one would be sooo cute!

Miss Prickly said...

I was going to sit this one out, but seeing your muslin kind of made me excited to dig in my stash and find some fabric for my own Pastille. I love almost all of the Colette patterns, EXCEPT for the sleeves. I don't like dainty sleeves either. I'm interested in seeing what you'll do here.

Would you be willing to do a post devoted to alternative sleeves for your readers?

Rochelle New said...

I'm not digging the sleeves on my dress either! Though, I honestly don't think they look bad on you. I still need to work on the bottom part of my fit. Other than that I think it will turn out really cute! I can't wait to see everyone's in NINE DAYS! Eeep! Sneaking up fast!

velosewer said...

The sleeves suit you. I hate muslins too but they do help refine what you're about to make. It feels like you're wasting your time but I am often happier with the final product.

Tors said...

Will you remove the sleeves completely or use a different sleeve type? What about a 3/4 length sleeve, or even something just above elbow length? I like the way the dress looks on you, looking forward to seeing the finished article (and to see how much you take out for your sway back! )

charlotte said...

I dont think that shoulders are broad just the sleeves are not capped enough for the effect, maybe the size is too big.

Becky said...

I don't think the sleeves look bad on you, but I can see how they'd feel a little awkward.

I don't like making muslins either! I only do it when I have to--otherwise, I just fit projects as I go. Feels like a waste of time and fabric, especially with my "sew from stash" focus.

Catherine said...

My muslin has the same look with the sleeves - i.e. that they look too big. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to reduce the size? Is it just a matter of moving the shoulder curve closer to the neckline?
Thanks very much.

Sarah said...

@Catherine - Sounds like you need a narrow shoulder adjustment

Alessa said...

I really like seeing those muslins! I seldom make them, myself, but seeing the different fitting problems and which solutions seem to work helps me a lot in my understanding of fitting, I think. Thanks for sharing this with us!