Saturday, February 11, 2012

Sew Colette: My Pastille Muslin Part 1

The Pastille Dress is one of the patterns in The Colette Handbook I have been most excited to make.  I love the feminine details Sarai has incorporated which take this classic sheath-style dress to a whole other level.

This past week we focused on alterations that are specific to the Pastille.  One alteration I definitely needed to make was for the shoulders.  As I am a broad-shouldered lass, as my granpa used to say, this is a necessity for me.  Otherwise, my shoulders stick out a full 1.5" past the shoulder seam.  Not a terrific look and it's especially pronounced when I wear garments with cap sleeves.

To alter my Pastille, I used the simple slash-and-spread method.  I first drew my slashing line down from the shoulder and snipped down to the armscye.

 You'll notice I did not trace the pattern for this garment and I may have shocked some of you with that.  The truth of the matter is, I hate tracing patterns, although I do try to make myself do it (I did for the Meringue).  Sometimes, the thought of tracing seems like a huge, laborious step, which dampens a lot of the joy of the process for me.  It's during these times I cut and carry on.

After slashing the pattern and moving the cap sleeve out of the way, I took a scrap piece of tissue paper and marked out a space exactly 1.5" wide; the amount I needed to extend the shoulder seam. I placed one end flush against the left side of the slash and secured it with tape, then did the same with the other side. 

I redrew the shoulder curve and fused the altered pattern piece to interfacing for added durability.  Then I repeated the steps for the back bodice piece.

Next I'll show you my muslin and the swayback alteration I made. Stay tuned!


autumnyarn said...

Oh wow - such a simple solution to a problem I share! I ended up pinning, guesstimating and redrawing the shoulder line to get the sleeves to work. I'm definitely doing this the next time I have a pattern with cap sleeves.

poppykettle said...

I have the exact same problem! My shoulders are always wider than patterns allow for, so I'm super familiar with needing to do this. It's always great to see how other people account for it :)

Miss Crayola Creepy said...

I think that if you are an experienced enough seamstress that you can get away with cutting from the pattern. Me on the other hand... not a good idea!!!