Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Sew Colette: Bust Adjustments for Licorice

As with all of our Colette Handbook projects, sometimes a bust adjustment is necessary to achieve the ideal fit.  What makes this potentially challenging is that the Licorice dress is a sheath-style dress; all in one piece.

Do not despair, however! It is still a very straightforward process to make the adjustments you need for your ideal fit.  First off, I'll tackle the full bust adjustment (FBA).  Below is a terrific video tutorial that details every step of the process:

I also found a great photo tutorial from the Three Dresses Project, which I thought may prove helpful as well.

The Sewing Corner provides an informative and easy SBA; however, it is for separate bodice and skirt pieces.  It could still easily be applied to the Licorice by cutting the pattern pieces into separate bodice and skirt pieces, make the SBA, then reattach them.   Hungry Zombie Couture has an excellent SBA tutorial here.  

While I am normally not a pattern tracer, for these type of adjustments I highly recommend making them on a traced copy in order to preserve your original.  This is especially handy if you make a mistake!

* * * * *

Have questions? Please feel free to post here, in Erin's blog, or in the sew-along Flickr group.
We're here to help!


dottiedoodle said...

Thank you for this! I've just bought the Sewaholic Cambie pattern, and think I may need to make this adjustment for the first time, so perfect timing.

Rachel said...

Thanks for this - I'm still struggling with FBAs. Doesn't the method shown in the video mean, though, that you get extra width the whole length of the dress, so it will be a baggier fit? Or do you then take the excess out at the side seams or waist darts? Any help appreciated!

Sarah said...

@dottiedoodle - You're welcome! The Cambie is on my wish list.

@Rachel - You could use the pivot adjustment for the waist and hip areas to tweak the pattern to your ideal fit.

Symon said...

Thank you!! I've been holding back on starting my dress, because I wasn't sure how to tackle the FBA, but now I can go full force! :)

Sabrina Wharton-Brown said...

Hi Sarah,
Thanks for mentioning my blog in your post! : )

The tutorial I posted for the SBA can work on one-piece dresses too because only the bust dart is altered. : )

Have a nice day!