Lovely Sarai, the genius behind Colette Patterns, has a brilliant method for calculating the ease you need for your FBA or SBA. She recommends the following steps for an FBA:
- Try on your muslin and mark your bust line, bust apex, waist, and hip.
- Cut the muslin straight down the center front and then try it on again, adjusting the fit until the bust fits comfortably.
- Measure the distance of the bust line opening of your muslin, keeping it in line with your apex. Divide by two to find out how much ease to add to each side of the bust.
Once you have this measurement, continue following the FBA tutorial and make your custom pattern pieces. As I said previously, with these types of adjustments it is a definite must to work with a traced copy of your pattern pieces.
For those ladies at the opposite end of the spectrum, like myself, an SBA is often necessary for obtaining the ideal fit. Sarai recommends the following steps:
- Try on your muslin and mark your bust line, bust apex, waist, and hip
- Pinch out the fullness around the bust and pin. (I recommend using safety pins, as they will not shift.)
- Measure the amount you have pinned on each side of the bust. Write down these numbers.
Once you have the measurements, continue following the SBA tutorial to create your custom fit. As with the FBA, it is really important to work with a traced copy of the original pattern pieces.
What is most important with any type of pattern adjustments is to find a method with which you are comfortable and yields the results you want. Below are links to alternate FBA/SBA adjustments:
Alternate SBA/FBA Tutorials
Casey's Elegant Musings SBA
Gertie's SBA for Colette Pattern's Parfait
Megan Nielsen's SBA and FBA adjustments
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