Sunday, October 21, 2012

Peony Sew-Along: Bodice Adjustments

Peony is a beautiful, classically cut dress with basic construction techniques.  However, it can be a challenge to fit.  Our own  Rochelle, has had difficultly with dart placement and excess fabric in the bodice.  She detailed the alterations she needs and I look forward to see her plan of attack go into action.

I had a bit of difficulty with the bust darts on my original Peony.  My alterations involved a simple shortening trick:   in order not to get that undesireable 'pointy look' at the apex, I simply shortened the point of my dart by approximately 1 cm.  I am sure that this is pretty unorthodox, but it worked beautifully for me.  Don't forget to use Rochelle's excellent dart tracing method!

Some of you will need to move the bust darts to customize the fit.   Below is an excellent video tutorial by Pandemic Apparel showing how to move a dart anywhere on the bodice.  Peony uses straight and CF darts.

 Miss P's bust dart tutorial has appeared here before and is excellent.  Click here to view.

Small Bust Adjustment
A Small Bust Adjustment removes excess fabric from the bodice to customize the fit.  You will need to make an SBA if your muslin has loose/sagging fabric or wrinkling around the bust line.  Colette Patterns has an excellent SBA tutorial here.

Full Bust Adjustment
A Full Bust Adjustment inserts extra fabric around the bust area to eliminate tightness/straining or tight wrinkles in the bodice. Follow Colette Patterns' FBA tutorial here.

The Peony project schedule is as follows:

Week of October 1st: Sew-Along Kick-Off (Muslins, measurements, etc)
Week of October 8th: Fabulous Fit
Week of October 15th: It's All About Fabric!
Weeks of October 22nd - 31st: Be Our Guest
Week of November 5th: Peony Parade - be sure to upload your finished dress into the sew-along Flickr group!


angie.a said...

Ok that's it. I'm cutting out a muslin today. I was going to wait until my Crepe was finished, but one more UFO won't matter...right?? :D

This is the sign of a truly SICK seamstress: I'm dying to know if I have the same fit problems as everyone else on this bodice. It's like a big challenge staring me in the face: Make it fit!

velosewer said...

I've adjusted the bust darts and lowered the neckline today so I hope to get a basic Peony version done this week.

I have a trench coat that needs to be hemmed, but I need to feel motivated, hence the Peony commences:)

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