Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Lemon Roberts Dungarees

Oh, have I got a whopper for you today!  These may be the craziest things I've ever made and I am unabashedly in love with them.  It all started with Roisin's 'Good God, Lemon' dress.

Roisin is a pretty inspiring Sewcialist, isn't she?  Her handmade dresses are beautiful and I love how she uses a variety of prints that really show off her personality.  When I saw the Good God, Lemon dress on Instagram, I was smitten with the amazing lemon print fabric that she had used.  The shop she used was out of stock, but Blackbird Fabrics had just restocked their version and I bought myself 3 metres.

Originally, I thought I would make a dress or pinafore from this fabric; either a Painted Portrait Dress or a Ruby Dress.  However, when the fabric arrived, I knew it would be perfect for overalls.  It's a stretch poplin with amazing stretch and recovery; however, it's quite a bit beefier than other stretch poplins I've used.  This isn't a criticism by any means, but it does go to show that sewing can be quite serendipitious.

Once the fabric was washed and dried, it hung out in my fall/winter capsule pile while I finished up some summer stragglers and cracked on with really narrowing down my capsule makes.  It wasn't until I saw Tasha's pinapple palazzo pants that my ideas for this fabric really solidified.

I've waxed poetical about my love of Marilla Walker's patterns before and I'm happily doing so again.  She really is a brilliant pattern drafter and her construction methods yield beautiful garments that let the fabric shine.  Marilla's patterns tend to fit me straight out of the package, but just to be sure, I wanted to make a muslin before cutting into the lemons.  I used a charcoal twill that I've had in my stash for a while. I cut a straight size 4 and the only change I made was to sew the inseam at a 3/8" instead of the recommend 5/8" seam allowance.  The twill I used has no stretch, so I do get a closer fit at the waistline than you see here.  That really doesn't bother me though, as one of the reasons I wanted to make lemon dungarees was to have other options besides pajamas available for high pain days.  On those days, even fabric hurts when it touches my skin and the oversized fit of these would be perfect.

To make the palazzo style legs on the lemon version, I slashed and spread the leg pieces by 2", narrowing to 1/4" at the thighs, and redrew the outer side seam to fall straight from the hips.  The slight pooling of the fabric at the back is from my swayback.  I elected not to do a swayback adjustment because, in this instance, the pooling really doesn't bother me. 

I love how this crazy print makes me look like I belong in a Florida retirement home!  Maybe I should change my name to Magic Madge?  I had planned to make a hot pink stretch denim version of these dungarees, but in an effort to make a wearable wardrobe, I know a pair of hot pink pants will get worn more often.  I ordered some dark indigo stretch denim from Fabricville for another version of this lovely pattern.  The hot pink stretch denim will be made into Style Arc's Barb pants.

What are your fall/winter creative plans?

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